Mythic River 2017 Estate Constantin Gofas, 15.3.2020
It is not like every white wine of the 2017 harvest is palatable in 2020, and far fewer can stand their own against a sepia (cuttlefish) black risotto,
where most would bend ungracefully. But since this one had prevailed some 15 months ago, I dared it against the same dish yesterday, feeling quite confident, I must say.
And prevail it did again, lemon-greenish had turned to lemon-straw, the nose of primary fruit of white peach, pear, grapefruit, pineapple and some straw was still there, but some of them had accomplished a dried orange blossom and peel scent, without losing intensity, but ripening up instead. The high acidity was now wrapped in sweet dried orange and kumquat peel, while the white peach and pineapple were ripe, giving the full body a different weight. Longish finish, that did not shorten when confronted with the black risotto, they were acquainted anyway. A wine with a character to evolve. Beautiful pairing to the best risotto I have ever cooked.
Mythic River (Asopos river that is, which flows by the winery that holds a party at its banks each September) is a 50-50 blend of Malagouzia and Sauvignon Gris from the slopes of Koutsi, Nemea, Greece. Malagouzia has been the peoples’ star wine in Greece in the last 20 years or so-Asyrtiko is mainly popular among wine lovers –for its aromatic qualities, medium weight and that bitter-sweet aftertaste. Sauvignon Gris on the other hand is the French underdog that lives in the shadow of its famous cousin, although a portion of it secretely fine-tunes the famous Bordeaux whites for weight, acid and off-bitterness. This is the only Greek blend that contains it, and only 6,500 bottles are made each year.
I loved this wine from the first glass and for all its qualities, power, character, weight, length, endurance I fail to comprehend why its popularity is not increasing along with the other winery labels. Would you like to try it and explain?